Chester_Lampwick
07-29-2017, 12:17 PM
Hi all,
Just wanted to pass on some tips I for replacing the control arms on a stock, unmodded 2010 Mazda3. The instructional videos on Youtube are a good place to start, but the ones currently available are for the previous generation. There are some subtle and aggravating differences.
When I had my tires replaced, Canadian Tire suggest I replace the worn control arms for $700. I passed on that offer. Instead I obtained Moog RK621270 and RK621271 for $131.24 each from PartSource vs $195 each for genuine Mazda from the dealer. Now time to earn $400 in savings.
The control arm replacement is simple in theory. There's literally only for bolts and one nut.
Suggested tools are:
Floor jack
Impact gun
Metric Sockets 10, 13, 14, 17, 19, 21
Metric Wrench 14mm
Torx bit T25 or T30?
Tie rod separator
Mistake #1
I lifted only the side I was working on. You'll understand why you should lift the whole front in a moment.
Try to access the bolt that retains the ball joint. Realize that being able to rotate the spindle will make this much easier, so separate the tie rod and this is a breeze.
Challenge #1
After raising the car and removing the wheel, to access the horizontal bolt on the passenger side you'll need to remove a plastic shroud and a stamped steel cover on the bottom of the A/C compressor.
Removing the two vertical bolts requires a lot of ground clearance if using an electric impact gun. Raise the car a lot more than if just doing tire or brake service. At this point you will note that there are actually non captured nuts on the other end of these bolts. Big wing nuts 28-66Y. The style on the previous M3 has threaded inserts welded into the control arm. Eventually the bolts will drop.
Challenge #2
After knocking the balljoint out of the spindle, the rear of the control arm is hung up on the sub frame. A little prying and hammering takes care of this.
Reassembly
Trying to get the rear of the control arm sandwiched around the sub frame is a bitch! The rubber busing and stabilizer arm need to need to be pried up out of the way. However since the other side of the car is on the ground, this arm has pressure on it. See mistake #1.
Mistake #2
Try to disconnect sway bar end link to be able to pickup bar out of the way. If you do this, and don't get it properly like I did, you will have horrible suspension noise.
Advice/tips
Lift up whole front of the car
Do both sides at once. This will free up the sway bar. Probably will need to disconnect the links.
Separate the tie rods with the proper tool. Save frustration of trying to do this with everything connected.
Tighten the endlinks with a 14mm wrench and large Torx bit (I think T25, I didn't look) on a socket wrench initially until tight, then torque to 40 ft/lbs
TL : DR
Mazda uses the control arm bolts to fasten the stabilizer bar bushing. Sandwiching all this stuff while trying to start a loose wing nut in this tricky location. PITA.
Just wanted to pass on some tips I for replacing the control arms on a stock, unmodded 2010 Mazda3. The instructional videos on Youtube are a good place to start, but the ones currently available are for the previous generation. There are some subtle and aggravating differences.
When I had my tires replaced, Canadian Tire suggest I replace the worn control arms for $700. I passed on that offer. Instead I obtained Moog RK621270 and RK621271 for $131.24 each from PartSource vs $195 each for genuine Mazda from the dealer. Now time to earn $400 in savings.
The control arm replacement is simple in theory. There's literally only for bolts and one nut.
Suggested tools are:
Floor jack
Impact gun
Metric Sockets 10, 13, 14, 17, 19, 21
Metric Wrench 14mm
Torx bit T25 or T30?
Tie rod separator
Mistake #1
I lifted only the side I was working on. You'll understand why you should lift the whole front in a moment.
Try to access the bolt that retains the ball joint. Realize that being able to rotate the spindle will make this much easier, so separate the tie rod and this is a breeze.
Challenge #1
After raising the car and removing the wheel, to access the horizontal bolt on the passenger side you'll need to remove a plastic shroud and a stamped steel cover on the bottom of the A/C compressor.
Removing the two vertical bolts requires a lot of ground clearance if using an electric impact gun. Raise the car a lot more than if just doing tire or brake service. At this point you will note that there are actually non captured nuts on the other end of these bolts. Big wing nuts 28-66Y. The style on the previous M3 has threaded inserts welded into the control arm. Eventually the bolts will drop.
Challenge #2
After knocking the balljoint out of the spindle, the rear of the control arm is hung up on the sub frame. A little prying and hammering takes care of this.
Reassembly
Trying to get the rear of the control arm sandwiched around the sub frame is a bitch! The rubber busing and stabilizer arm need to need to be pried up out of the way. However since the other side of the car is on the ground, this arm has pressure on it. See mistake #1.
Mistake #2
Try to disconnect sway bar end link to be able to pickup bar out of the way. If you do this, and don't get it properly like I did, you will have horrible suspension noise.
Advice/tips
Lift up whole front of the car
Do both sides at once. This will free up the sway bar. Probably will need to disconnect the links.
Separate the tie rods with the proper tool. Save frustration of trying to do this with everything connected.
Tighten the endlinks with a 14mm wrench and large Torx bit (I think T25, I didn't look) on a socket wrench initially until tight, then torque to 40 ft/lbs
TL : DR
Mazda uses the control arm bolts to fasten the stabilizer bar bushing. Sandwiching all this stuff while trying to start a loose wing nut in this tricky location. PITA.