How to sell a car yourself

[SkyActivR]

Looking to get rid of my car (Not a Mazda) within this month but I have no idea how to go about doing it.
Won't get much trade in for a 16 year old car which is just starting to rust, hoping the relative low mileage 160k for the year and only the start of rust will make it an easier sell.

Does it make sense to sell it as is or can you get more if you safety it? How to handle test drives? Deal with people wanting to take it to their mechanic? etc

[Kiyomi]

get a used vehicle package from service canada as it provides the buyer vital information and a acts as a bill of sale, and getting the car safety certified makes it easier to sell the car imo.

[Default User]

get a used vehicle package from service canada as it provides the buyer vital information and a acts as a bill of sale, and getting the car safety certified makes it easier to sell the car imo.


Exactly

Get the $20 UVP so everything is documented and disclosed up front for the buyer

Safety cert is always a bonus for buyers. Means no hidden repair costs that they have to worry about just to get the car ok the road. Pay the $35 testing fee to find out if it passes / or at least / what it does need to pass.


How much are you expecting to get for this vehicle? Are you willing to donate it to a high school or trade school? Or a church....

[Hyperion]

Exactly

Get the $20 UVP so everything is documented and disclosed up front for the buyer

Safety cert is always a bonus for buyers. Means no hidden repair costs that they have to worry about just to get the car ok the road. Pay the $35 testing fee to find out if it passes / or at least / what it does need to pass.


How much are you expecting to get for this vehicle? Are you willing to donate it to a high school or trade school? Or a church....

Where TF you finding a $35 safety. They're $80 now

[Default User]

Where TF you finding a $35 safety. They're $80 now

Holy **** LOL

I only buy from dealerships nowadays. Too much BS to deal with on private sales


(Edit - is it $35 for the cert and $50 for the labor?).

[SkyActivR]

Exactly

Get the $20 UVP so everything is documented and disclosed up front for the buyer

Safety cert is always a bonus for buyers. Means no hidden repair costs that they have to worry about just to get the car ok the road. Pay the $35 testing fee to find out if it passes / or at least / what it does need to pass.


How much are you expecting to get for this vehicle? Are you willing to donate it to a high school or trade school? Or a church....

Definetly getting the UVP, It's a 2001 Crv, not worth scrapping or donating as people still go for them. See way more of them then civics of the same year anyways.
There's a 177k for 2.8k safetied and a 97' with 160k for 2.5k so just aiming around there but there are also 235km ones for the same amount so its all over the place lol...


Where TF you finding a $35 safety. They're $80 now

Yeah thats alot... It'll definitely pass so probably just make it they can pay me extra to do it or they can do it themselves...

Got the front brakes done recently, not sure that'll add anything.

[studum]

It'll sell.

In my experience selling beaters:

Know what's wrong with it (if anything).

Decide on a price to sell safetied (if you're willing to) and a price as-is, where is

As mentioned get the UVIP from MTO

Find comparable private sale market values

If you want a quick sale price it lower enough so it generates interest

Let it go to the first serious offer you get that you're willing to accept. Don't "hold" the car for anyone without a non-refundable deposit.

If taking a deposit write up a receipt with amount paid, amount owing, date for balance to be paid, etc.

Give it a good spray wash, vacuum and dust inside, put lipstick on that pig and take plenty of photos

[Kiewan]

Subbed.

GLWS

[m_bisson]

Depending on the current condition, a $200 detail could easily pay for itself.

[rajin929]

call me paranoid, but when I sold my accord I asked the buyer which bank they dealt with and it happened to be one I banked with as well.
so both of us went into the branch and did a direct transfer of funds from their account to mine.
then I gave him the ownership and he went to the MTO and transferred the title and plates, and when he came back I gave him the keys to the car.

I know most buyers would be like wtf that's a hassle, but I lucked out with a buyer that was understanding.

[studum]

call me paranoid, but when I sold my accord I asked the buyer which bank they dealt with and it happened to be one I banked with as well.
so both of us went into the branch and did a direct transfer of funds from their account to mine.
then I gave him the ownership and he went to the MTO and transferred the title and plates, and when he came back I gave him the keys to the car.

I know most buyers would be like wtf that's a hassle, but I lucked out with a buyer that was understanding.

You're paranoid

All you need is to get cash or certified cheque and issue a bill of sale with buyer's name, VIN, date, price and have both buyer and seller signatures on it. Keep a copy of that, take the money and the car is theirs - either "as-is, where is" or safetied and e-tested if you've agreed to those terms. If you did, you will need to provide those certificates as well.

The rest is up to the buyer.

If you have proof you sold the car, you're not responsible for the buyer's actions after they take possession. If you want to meet at the bank and do key / papers exchange there that's between you and them.

I know if I handed over payment I'd want the keys with it LOL.

FYI - simple bill of sale is included at the back of the UVIP

[SkyActivR]

Depending on the current condition, a $200 detail could easily pay for itself.

Hard to put that kind of money into the car, only benefit I could see doing to up it is defogging the headlight and it isn't that bad on mine.


call me paranoid, but when I sold my accord I asked the buyer which bank they dealt with and it happened to be one I banked with as well.
so both of us went into the branch and did a direct transfer of funds from their account to mine.
then I gave him the ownership and he went to the MTO and transferred the title and plates, and when he came back I gave him the keys to the car.

I know most buyers would be like wtf that's a hassle, but I lucked out with a buyer that was understanding.

Nice, e-transfer probably would be easier. Good idea tho.

[rajin929]

Nice, e-transfer probably would be easier. Good idea tho.

True, but there's scams with e-transfers too.
I think the max you can do is $3,000, in my case the sale was close to $10k so I didn't want to deal with fake cash or a cert cheque or draft which banks now hold for 5-10 business days.

In my case, the account transfer was best, because I know for sure the buyer has the money.
If they didn't and wanted to pull a fast one, they would have refused to go with me to the bank in the first place so that would have been my first red flag lol

[rajin929]

You're paranoid

All you need is to get cash or certified cheque....

I live in Brampton. Nuff said.
I covered my butt at the end of the day and didn't want to take any chances. It ended up being a flawless transaction.

In the case of the OP, given the value of the car a more simpler sale could happen no doubt.

[SkyActivR]

Haven't post it up yet but how do I handle seller asking for VIN to check history, taking it to their mechanic etc?

Assuming most people will only do the sale after a visit to the mechanic who will already check if it'd need stuff for safety, should I bother getting the safety myself....? Don't really think it will boost value much but no doubt it won't pass.

How do you filter out real buyers?

[SilentJay]

Just sold a vehicle of similar age not long ago, advertised as-is so no safety/e-test, however it was in perfect running condition.

In my situation, the vehicle was being advertised for $2000 and ended up sold for $1750. I figured it'd sell for around that much so it wasn't worth my time/effort to get safety/certified.

- I allowed prospective buyers to jot down the VIN number after I've qualified them as legitimate buyers
- Get the UVIP
- Draft up a simple 1-page document indicating the time/date of the transaction, location of where it was completed, particulars of the vehicle, how much it was sold for, and signatures from both sides
- Have the original ownership paper for the car ready - half of it goes to the new owner to bring to service Ontario to complete the transfer of ownership
- Remove your plates from the vehicle as soon as the transaction is complete. The new owner will need to bring plates or get temp plates to drive it away

[kathyd]

Autotrader is the obvious option but it's not for everyone. I did not enjoy that process. Same with Kijiji.

After searching around, I realized that the price the dealer was giving me, combined with the discount I got for getting a new (used) car from them, I think I actually made more money than selling it privately. Something to consider anyway.

[herb]

I was able to sell a previous M3 via kijiji. Sold the car 'as-is' and was very upfront/honest on the status of the car, any concerns, etc. I think that helped with the transaction... and received payment in cash.

i also say i lucked out with a low-maintenance buyer.