Clunking front driver side when turning over bumps

[KevinM3]

Hi guys,

Recently I’ve been hearing a clunk when I’m turning right and at the same time going over bumps from the front driver side wheel area. Any ideas?

Also hearing a clunking sound at the rear when I’m driving around 20-40km/h over bumps but seems to be gone when I drive over 60km.

I’ll be jacking up the rear this weekend to check if anything is loose or so.

Recently had a set of Koni oranges and Eibach Prokits installed - only issue I had was the top nut was loose which has been resolved.

Thanks a bunch


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[LiviuTincu]

It might be the ball joint or upper strut mount. What mileage is the car?

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[jeff7670]

Front will most likely be a ball joint or sway bar end link. It could very well be a strut mount if you re used yours when you swapped things over. They can't be re used from mine and many others experience. The rear could also be an endlink. So many bushings in the rear it can be difficult to diagnose.

[KevinM3]

Car is currently at 163k. The strut mounts were reused at both ends. Can the replacement be DYI? I wouldn’t mind doing the work if it’s straight forward.

And where can I get proven replacement for them?

Thanks for the reply guys


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[jeff7670]

Could easily be the strut mounts, check the other stuff first. A DIY requires spring compressors which is a fairly cheap tool. I did mine, didn't redo the alignment after and had no issues. Set aside 4 hours if you have never done it before. The most difficult part is sliding the bottom of the strut into the slot. Know how to properly remove an endlink before you attempt.

[KevinM3]

Yeah I figured I should get the struts replaced.

Amazon has the rear strut mounts as ‘Dorman 924-412’ and I tried using their car fit function but it tells me it doesn’t fit my car. Where can I check part number that would fit my car?

Btw I have 2012 hatchback 2.5L

Thanks again


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[LiviuTincu]

I would not buy Dorman , KYB is better for rear mounts. But these when damaged will make a very loud noise and you will know that the mount is broken. Maybe the end links are loose, trailing arm bushing is out, check first to see what the problem is. Control arm bushing could also be the problem.

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[KevinM3]

Rockauto is listing brands Sachs at 20$ each and Mevotech at 40$ each.

Not sure what everybody goes with when it comes to replacing the strut mounts

I called Mazda and they don’t sell the rear strut mounts separately.


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[S.F.W.]

Rockauto is listing brands Sachs at 20$ each and Mevotech at 40$ each.

Not sure what everybody goes with when it comes to replacing the strut mounts

I called Mazda and they don’t sell the rear strut mounts separately.


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I have read good things about Sachs with regard to the Mazdaspeed3. I am going that route for my MS3.

[KevinM3]

I have read good things about Sachs with regard to the Mazdaspeed3. I am going that route for my MS3.

Yeah I read likewise. Unfortunately, Rockauto only has 1 left of the Sachs, and with additional 10$ to ship here by Dec 3 lol

I'll keep looking around

[jeff7670]

Oh if it was the strut mounts in the rear you would know. Your car would sound deadly unsafe. Had it happen to me last year.

[KevinM3]

Oh if it was the strut mounts in the rear you would know. Your car would sound deadly unsafe. Had it happen to me last year.

I had a quick check last week when i put my winters on, and the strut mounts looked fine. I suspect the single nut holding the strut bolt to the mounts on the top is loose.

[LiviuTincu]

I had a quick check last week when i put my winters on, and the strut mounts looked fine. I suspect the single nut holding the strut bolt to the mounts on the top is loose.You don't need to change the mount if the nut is loose. Are you sure are not the brake pads? Press the brake next time and see if the clunk goes away.

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[LiviuTincu]

These are to be installed this weekend, brrrrrrr.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181109/5e8852fd0fd568dc18a6b2061a4828f0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181109/97eac02c40f2cfcf7e4db916e1c1859c.jpg

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[KevinM3]

You don't need to change the mount if the nut is loose. Are you sure are not the brake pads? Press the brake next time and see if the clunk goes away.

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If I can recall, I’m already on the brakes when I’m slowing down and the clunks come on when going over even little bumps on the road


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[LiviuTincu]

Finished on Saturday, 4 hours to install.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181112/e901df5e83986b8d4bbdab045d9470e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181112/77ea15b943f07d786bb8f85cd952ce79.jpg

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[dadinho_nfg]

Having the exact same noise happening. Driving a 08 speed3 with 62k km. Car was bought two years ago from original owner who winter stored it every winter.

Took the car to Daley’s Auto in Streetsville twice now and they can’t seem to locate the issue. Troy ( the owner ) suggested maybe if the car was t stored on blocks perhaps it can be the shocks / struts. He did check the mounts and no issues there.

I’m looking around for an oem swap. Car is bare bone stock and not looking to lower or anything. I’m considering Koni srt or even yellows.

Interested to see what you all land on and what the root cause is.

[dadinho_nfg]

What are those parts and how much from Mazda?

[LiviuTincu]

My front left side brake pads rattle, sooooo annoying. I have to open it up and fix it.

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[KevinM3]

Haven’t had the chance to check the car but the fronts I suspect it’s the end links.

The rear I believe are the sway bar end links also


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[LiviuTincu]

What are those parts and how much from Mazda?

$200 from Mazda , each , without tax . They are the control arms .

[Flagrum_3]

$200 from Mazda , each , without tax . They are the control arms .

After my 2nd Moog Lower Control arm bit the dust, I went back to OEM and picked up, just recently, a LCA at Ajax Mazda for $174 with the TM3 discount. Its worth the extra coin as the quality is apparent. The Mazda LCA is so much more robust.


_3

[LiviuTincu]

After my 2nd Moog Lower Control arm bit the dust, I went back to OEM and picked up, just recently, a LCA at Ajax Mazda for $174 with the TM3 discount. Its worth the extra coin as the quality is apparent. The Mazda LCA is so much more robust.


_3Yes, OEM is holding a lot better than aftermarket. I have got mine from UAE, $320 all in.

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[LiviuTincu]

I was wrong about the brake pads making noise , it was the sway bar Link. Very annoying rattle, I'll fix it this week.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181213/ec6ee48b5d992fc1d8ed8019a3bfe0ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181213/416da82b59ffea9b3005ca19609b8074.jpg

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[KevinM3]

I was wrong about the brake pads making noise , it was the sway bar Link. Very annoying rattle, I'll fix it this week.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181213/ec6ee48b5d992fc1d8ed8019a3bfe0ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181213/416da82b59ffea9b3005ca19609b8074.jpg

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How much did you get the front links from Mazda?




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[LiviuTincu]

How much did you get the front links from Mazda?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk$49.20 for 1 link & 2 nuts

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[LiviuTincu]

It was one hour job, lower nut was stuck and as you can see I had to cut down the joint and push it the other way. 1 hour instead of 10 minutes. Anyway , is done and no more clunking.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/bfd2d47dd20dd7dd7aaf337e6c3ef7e3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/840a3c5930e568bdd0ea823011765bd1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/7cc03e6b2b0b13fb7cb2be2b3843f55b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/4fd0b06ab2d958b71d19018943db72e8.jpg

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[LiviuTincu]

No damages were donehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/e1b70ddb18387904814f09d906c2f01d.jpg

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[TheMAN]

After my 2nd Moog Lower Control arm bit the dust, I went back to OEM and picked up, just recently, a LCA at Ajax Mazda for $174 with the TM3 discount. Its worth the extra coin as the quality is apparent. The Mazda LCA is so much more robust.


_3

did you grease the ball joints frequently? this was an advertised "feature" of moog... thus making them high maintenance and crap!
this brand caters to the old school people who feel better about grease fittings rather than trusting "sealed for life" while at the same time greatly increasing their profit margins because they don't have to make them better for "sealed for life"

it's an overhyped brand for sure

[Flagrum_3]

did you grease the ball joints frequently? this was an advertised "feature" of moog... thus making them high maintenance and crap!
this brand caters to the old school people who feel better about grease fittings rather than trusting "sealed for life" while at the same time greatly increasing their profit margins because they don't have to make them better for "sealed for life"

it's an overhyped brand for sure

Mine were the sealed Moog type LCAs'

Moog used to be good when they were manufactured in the US, now in China quality has definitely gone down.


_3

[LiviuTincu]

For the quality that Mazda provide on OEM parts, price is less than aftermarket. Last control arm I have installed on 2005 was $90, good deal may think, but it only lasted 18 months, so to bring it up to 8 years I have to multiply by 5.3=$480 vs $230 Mazda. This only for parts, labor X5, think about it.

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