How to check wiring between key and washer pump/motor switch?

Hi!

I think that I have a short between the washer pump switch and the key switch, I purchased a wire checker but I'm not sure where to start looking. Anyone know?


I already replaced the washer fluid reservoir and pumps and fuse 53 still blows when I turn the key to switch on the electronics. That is why I am guessing the fault is there. Just my guess though, any suggestions welcome.

I would guess the fault is somewhere under the hood and not the console since my undercarriage cover is falling off right now but the wiring diagram and my brain tells me otherwise. If you think I'm mistaken please inform!

Well for starters, the fault won't be between your key switch and washer tank. All that's happening is by turning the key on, you're switching on the main power relay which energizes the fuse block in which fuse 53 resides. Your fault is between the washer tank connector and the turn stalk on the steering column, or between the switch and the fuse. You want to put your meter on resistance check (ohms) and check between the +ve wire to chassis on the washer pump connector (with your key shut off and the connector unplugged). If it reads somewhere around 0.00 ohms, then your positive wire is shorted somewhere along the wiring run.

Next step would be to take the covers off of the steering column and unplug the electrical connector from the stalk which has the washer pump switch on it. You'll have power coming into the switch and the wire leaving to the pump. Check each of these for shorts to chassis to find which side of the switch the fault is on (ie, between the fuse block and switch, or from the switch-to-the pump).

Happy troubleshooting!

You'll also need the wire diagrams for your car so you know which wires to look for and test.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by morganc

Well for starters, the fault won't be between your key switch and washer tank. All that's happening is by turning the key on, you're switching on the main power relay which energizes the fuse block in which fuse 53 resides. Your fault is between the washer tank connector and the turn stalk on the steering column, or between the switch and the fuse. You want to put your meter on resistance check (ohms) and check between the +ve wire to chassis on the washer pump connector (with your key shut off and the connector unplugged). If it reads somewhere around 0.00 ohms, then your positive wire is shorted somewhere along the wiring run.

Next step would be to take the covers off of the steering column and unplug the electrical connector from the stalk which has the washer pump switch on it. You'll have power coming into the switch and the wire leaving to the pump. Check each of these for shorts to chassis to find which side of the switch the fault is on (ie, between the fuse block and switch, or from the switch-to-the pump).

Happy troubleshooting!

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Thanks! Much more happy troubleshooting with your help!

Thanks I got these ones but it doesn't seem that helpful.
https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJFHm.jpg
https://i.stack.imgur.com/PWbEu.jpg

Hey update on my problem. Turns out the fuse53 is also for the rear wiper motor as well as the washer pumps. For some reason the rear wiper wasn't working even when the washer pumps were...
The rear wiper snapped off so I had the mount rod exposed to the elements...I did some poking to the housing around the rod and then everything started to work. But then I mounted a new wiper arm on backwards and now it's stuck that way.
When I tried to unstick it I blew the fuse again and now the lights flicker when I try to start the engine and it doesn't start. So now I'm back where I was with a backwards rear wiper and hopefully just a battery that needs a boost.

Could it be that the rear wiper is to blame? What should I try next? 🙏

Update 2. Opened up the back panels and discounted the rear wiper motor. No more blown fuses...hopefully that was what it was.

Take it so someone who knows what they are doing? Either that or watch every diagnostic video on South Main Auto's YouTube channel: http://https://www.youtube.com/chann...liY7ko1PBhzTHA

Seriously, you need to isolate the problem. Which means starting with a complete wiring diagram of everything on that fuse, and then going through the wiring with a test meter or a test light.
You can get the wiring diagram from AllDatadiy. Subscription is $30 US/year. Good resource... also has TSB, repair procedures, etc. http://www.alldatadiy.com

The wiper motor is probably shot then. It works when there's no load, but as soon as you load it up with the friction of a wiper, then she blows. It's possible that you've had an ingress of water which has damaged the internals of the motor. Go to a wrecker and grab another one!