Rotors replacement after 68,000 km is this normal ?

I have had my Mazda 3 GT 07 model for a little more than two years now.

Never had any problems, tire rotation and maintenance every 8k.

Just had my tires changed coz they were worn out. Got nice set of v12 hankooks.

Did my first alignment.

And now two months later I noticed while driving on a highway 100km/h or faster when I am pressing breaks my steering wheel starts wobbling.

Did diagnostics today and I was told that it's time to change front break pads and the rotors coz they are 2.35 I think inch in width instead of 2.45
They lost me there... Correct me if I am wrong with measurements.

Anyway, I never heard anyone changing rotors together with the break pads...

Changing front rotors and set of pads is gonna cost me 500$

Should I do it or changing the pads should be enough to get rid of that wobble ?

Thanks for your help.

Sounds like a warped router, ask them if they can just machine them, it is MUCH cheaper

They said it isn't gonna last more than 3 months...

Machining rotors and new ones are minimal in price difference. Go aftermarket from our sponsors installed at Street Performance and you should be well under the $500 if I'm correct.

I think with many of us a set of rear pads last just under 50k Kms, fronts almost double that. I changed my rotors rears about 65k, fronts 100+k.

dont feel so bad. My rotors were warped when i bought my car at 26k hahah. I'm at 82k and still running them warped. I dont drive agressively so it shouldnt be a problem. They only pulsate for me under hard braking. I have a set of hps pads sitting here waiting to be changed since last year but i see there is still so much meat on the current pads which is why i am holding off on changing them. Im just waiting on getting new rotors before i change the pads too

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Originally Posted by KenYork

Machining rotors and new ones are minimal in price difference. Go aftermarket from our sponsors installed at Street Performance and you should be well under the $500 if I'm correct.

I think with many of us a set of rear pads last just under 50k Kms, fronts almost double that. I changed my rotors rears about 65k, fronts 100+k.

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I thought it was the other way round, since most of the breaking power goes to the front...
This is gonna be the first time I am replacing the pads, rear once seem to be good for another 20-30k front once r currently at their minimum.
I am just surprised that I have to replace rotors along with pads... sound weird.
On my previous Toyota Avensis the one I had in Europe I drove 140k changing pads once at the end, never had to worry about rotors.

And one more thing, why this replacement is not covered by the warranty ?
I thought mine had 80k warranty...

Brakes r not covered, they r normal wear and tear parts

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Originally Posted by HedonisT

I thought it was the other way round, since most of the breaking power goes to the front...
This is gonna be the first time I am replacing the pads, rear once seem to be good for another 20-30k front once r currently at their minimum.
I am just surprised that I have to replace rotors along with pads... sound weird.
On my previous Toyota Avensis the one I had in Europe I drove 140k changing pads once at the end, never had to worry about rotors.

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Well I drive an 04 and yes most cars break the other way around but it seems that most earlier model 3's wear rear first.

If you know someone who would help you out, it's much cheaper to diy, rotors and pads are very simple

the the lug nuts are not torqued properly and evenly, it will warp the rotors
heavy brake use in city traffic also contributes to it

Try rebedding your brakes. Sometimes there is an uneven layer of pad material on your rotors. When this is the case you can rebed (easiest) or remove the pad material manually by sanding them with garnet paper (more difficult). If none of these work then change your rotors. I've fixed what could be assumed to be warped rotors by rebedding them in two sessions (improved the first session; gone after the second).

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Originally Posted by cklwilliam

If you know someone who would help you out, it's much cheaper to diy, rotors and pads are very simple

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This. Might take a bit longer if you have to do it in your own garage, but you'll save half the cost. pads/rotors shouldn't cost too much. You'll be spending WAY under $500.

Mazda will charge you $110 x 2 for rotors and pads $118 a set plus $9.50 plus $7 plus 2 hour labor plus tax. You can do the math there. If you can get to Joe you can save 10% off labor and parts?

I'm lucky I guess - I'm at 90k, stock pads, stock rotors. I bed my brakes when after I drove about 1000km. I get VERY mild pulsating as of 5k ago, but I'm dealing with it fine.

As well, I always let off the brake once I stop. The worst thing you can do is go from 120 to zero, and keep pressure on the brakes. Its a quick way to warp your rotors. I also ahve stick... which helps... but its kind of one of those: "whats cheaper... clutch or brakes?" sorta deals. Hopefully I have a good blend. lol.

Changing your pads will do nothing, I'm not sure if there is enough metal on these mazda rotors to get them turned to even out the rotor. As for the warping of your rotors, it is all how your drive, if someone ride the brakes all the time they get really hot and can warp over time, but if you brake for sort periods allowing them to stay cooler they will last longer.

You could cheap on your breaks or ..... spend the money and save yourself from an accident or hitting a dude on a bike because your able to stop properly. $500 is nothing really and if you shop around, I am sure you can find a cheaper solution if it's too expensive.

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Originally Posted by Pearly

Mazda will charge you $110 x 2 for rotors and pads $118 a set plus $9.50 plus $7 plus 2 hour labor plus tax. You can do the math there. If you can get to Joe you can save 10% off labor and parts?

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Yep, the total price tag was 2 pads + 2 rotors + labor = 508 + tax.
I know I was driving aggressively for the past month but didn't expect to end up replacing rotors.
Lesson well learned. I need a racing car not a stock mazda 3....

I guess im in the same boat, i dont mean to threadjack but my question is on the same topic.

I,ve got i guess 'shimmy' or steering vibration when i press on the brakes above 100km.

I,m guessing warped rotor as i am only at about 45,000km on the car..I havent had anyone look at it just yet (due for 48km service soon)

Is it best to replace just 1 warped rotor or just do all brake pads/rotors in 1 shot.

Im thinking this would be a good time to switch to cross drilled rotors and hawk pads?

Any ideas?

I was told I need to have replaced both rotors. I don't think they will allow you to install just one. Pads though come in pairs.

yup you replace both at a time. time for cross drilled rotors :)

I've had my 07 GT Sedan since March/ April of 07... and it sounds/ feels like I'll have to replace my rotors and brake pads soon as well. The wheel starts to pulsate when I brake hard, and I also hear some squealing.

Good evening, can't help to but in. I may have a better option for the OP. Although I sport an 07 Mazda5 GT I believe the suspension and brakes are the same. So folks hear me out. 1 month ago I was experiencing the same vibration at aroung 100kph while braking and reported this to Scarborough Mazda during my last oil change. They said I needed to replace 2 front rotors, parts and labor is 350+ without pads since my pads are still ok (BTW I'm at 60k at the time).

I figure time for cross drilled rotors, so I searched CL, Kijiji and ebay. I found a few sellers here in the GTA and set up an appointment to each to see the quality of their product. All of them are about the same price ($170-190) with semi metallic pads. I chose one seller over the rest because the rotors comes painted and Nickel-chrome coated to prevent rusting. I installed it myself since I figure the How-tos looks easy and save me some more. Bottom line, I have cross drilled rotors w/ Nickel chromium coated, painted my calipers, new semi metallic pads and lubricated my caliper pins while Im at it.

Total cost to me:

Cross drilled rotors + semi metallic pads = $190
Paint (Red) for my calipers = $10
Paint (dark bronze) for my hub = $5
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Total = $205.00

Pics...http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...S/DSCN1178.jpg
Hope this gives you an idea. I will not give you the name of the seller of the rotors, I might break some rules here, I dont know but its easy to search, 4-5 are here in the GTA some offers installation from $100-170 calipers painted to your clor of preference.
Hope this helps

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...S/DSCN1179.jpghttp://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...S/DSCN1180.jpghttp://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...S/DSCN1178.jpg

looks great... although I'm not sure why you dont want to provide the seller of the product you bought, are you not happy with your purchase?

Ok if Im not breaking any rules here, I might be accused of advertising for the guy.

Flex auto parts, you can search kijiji for their ad under cross drilled rotors, they are in many places here in the GTA I've been to 2 of their shops. They also go under the company name OCU which I think handles installation and otther performance parts.
Flex usually handle internet business I think, they are in 80 Dynamic Drive unit 13 sacrborough.

I love the cross drilled rotors and the new pads. It felt better braking compared to the old oem.

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Originally Posted by Broxn

looks great... although I'm not sure why you dont want to provide the seller of the product you bought, are you not happy with your purchase?

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In a sense he is right as to why he shouldn't be naming the seller. Since it is a Kijiji thing. Post it here. http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...0-Kijiji-Deals

We have other sponsors who sell brakes for a good price too so they are options also.

Moderators, pls delete previous post if I posted illegal info here

Nah...I asked... My bad.
Hey..you live in Brooklin?

I don't think I've ever paid more than $300 for a set of brake pads and new rotors installed unless I was doing the fronts and the rears but usually the rears are good to at least 100,000km's, and yes the fronts wear quicker not the other way around. Mazda prices are ridiculous, just go to an independent shop that you trust or recommended by someone you know. Rotors are cheap and you don't have to get the bottom of the barrel kind either. Cross-drilled and slotted would be nice though! Just make sure you get good pads. You probably shouldn't be driving on warped, worn out or unevenly worn rotors as they will kill your pads faster. I just replaced the front brakes on my GT and I think I was at 85,000km's. If you are burning through pads/rotors you might have a bigger problem or you are really hard on your brakes of course. My old Z24 had issues with the calipers clamping too tight and not disengaging fast enough, I had to replace my brakes every year. Not sure if this is a concern for 3's though. It's quite normal to change both pads and rotors at the same time depending on your braking habits, but most will probably be able to burn two sets of pads before replacing the rotors especially on a vehicle with 4 wheel discs.

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Originally Posted by PearlM3

Sounds like a warped router, ask them if they can just machine them, it is MUCH cheaper

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How much is it to get a rotor machined approx?

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Originally Posted by Broxn

Nah...I asked... My bad.
Hey..you live in Brooklin?

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me? scarborough

OP, read up on the debate on the various rotor types (cross-drilled, slotted, blanks), and come to your own conclusion.

Joe @ MoT for the win if you choose blanks.

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Originally Posted by Fuman

OP, read up on the debate on the various rotor types (cross-drilled, slotted, blanks), and come to your own conclusion.

Joe @ MoT for the win if you choose blanks.

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Any advantage to buying OEM replacement blanks aftermarket from a sponsor than compared to the dealer?
After watching this thread and reading a few older ones, im seriously considering running hawk HPS and blanks

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Originally Posted by omalak

Any advantage to buying OEM replacement blanks aftermarket from a sponsor than compared to the dealer?
After watching this thread and reading a few older ones, im seriously considering running hawk HPS and blanks

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OEM = guarantee good fitment, and they have lasted for me. (60000 km per set).
i've used cheap blanks, and they caused me nothing but problems; bad fitment caused pedals to vibrate, and they warped after 1000km. Cheap blanks (a pair of fronts) saved me $30 in parts. In hindsight, it wasn't worth it, cause install costs money.

BTW, make sure you get the installer to sand down your hub (the contact patch between rotor and axle), otherwise even OEM rotors will cause pedal vibration.

+1 for no go on cheap blanks and pads.

you often don't save much (if at all through the life of the parts) and they often come with a little extra annoyances.

I stayed with OEM part coz of two reasons:
-First I don't have time to look for after market parts and fixing them if something goes wrong.
-Second negative feedback from people who have tried saving on non-OEM parts and ended up replacing rotors and pats twice.

OEM parts you say is better, but I had oemrotors and pads since I bought the car and it only lasted me 68K km. At half the price, if these aftermarket rotors and pads last me 50-60k km, I'll be happy. I opted to buy these because I want to know whether they are good or not, based on my visual quality inspection on 4 makes, im chose 1 over the rest. Besides It doesn't cause me intallation. I installed it myself.

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Originally Posted by wmzda5

OEM parts you say is better, but I had oemrotors and pads since I bought the car and it only lasted me 68K km. At half the price, if these aftermarket rotors and pads last me 50-60k km, I'll be happy. I opted to buy these because I want to know whether they are good or not, based on my visual quality inspection on 4 makes, im chose 1 over the rest. Besides It doesn't cause me intallation. I installed it myself.

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Great, your feedback is important. Keep us posted how those rotors and pads doing. If knew for sure these non-OEM parts are worth it I would most certainly buy them over OEM.
My respect to you that you are open to experiment.

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Originally Posted by HedonisT

Great, your feedback is important. Keep us posted how those rotors and pads doing. If knew for sure these non-OEM parts are worth it I would most certainly buy them over OEM.
My respect to you that you are open to experiment.

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1. These are low priced compared to what the dealership offers and I have a baseline reference on how long a "good" one last (68K). Mind you I could not stand the pulsating brakes even if it only happens when braking @100kph (needs more cooling)
2. Its even cheaper since I can install myself, wherein w/ dealer, its expensive. I I compare buying these over oem and installing both by myself, which the dealer will not guarantee because its a wear and tear part, whats the difference?
3. In this way I get to get it at a cheaper price @ almost half the price of only the front rotors parts and labor, I get to paint my calipers, its nickel chromium plated so no rust.
4. I get to inspect my brakes personally. My cousin, who regularly serviced his pristine 02 celica w/ toyota dealer was surpriced to find out that his caliper pins are all seized up. Thats what you call dealership quality.
5. You learn new things everyday with your mazda.

Another point, when you guys say that after breaking into a stop you have to let go off the brakes. How will you keep the car from rolling? I have a 5MT, E brake is also braking.