1991 Nissan Pathfinder - trade in, 2005 Mazda 3 GX ty grey - Write off, 2010 Mazda 3 GT E sedan CWP- trade in, 2010 Speed 3 w/tech CWP - Up for sale (soon), 2007 Mazda 3 GS silver- motor swapped in to 2009 MS3 CWP that had blown engine, 2002 BMW 330ci silver- new winter ride, 2005 BMW M3- new toy
Intake | Emblems Dipped | Tail light/ Fogs / Signals Blacked out | 7" inch display | 2 12" Clarion Sub woofers | Interior Light Conversion | Foot well lights | MS3 Style Spoiler | Rally Armour Mudflaps | EzLip | Plasti-Dipped Hood/Grill | Evil "M" Badge
and that POS aftermarket thermostat probably is all plastic, unlike the one you buy from mazda
don't be surprised if it breaks on you
2005 Mazda3 SP23 hatchback (auto)
2016 Mazda3 Sport GT (auto)
A lion would never cheat on his wife, but a Tiger Wood.
Heres a lesson in commonsense; It is absurd to go aftermarket on a thermostat which saves you $15 BUCKS! ...Thats a few coffees at Starbucks lol. Especially on an item which if it fails, can literally mean a 'TOASTED' engine (if not caught in time). Sure on many items, aftermarket is fine, but on a part as important as a thermostat, you don't cheap-out for a measly $15 bucks....That my friend is simply obsurd, not to mention stupidity at it's finest.
_3
Had the same issue back in September. Went with OEM to have a piece of mind. I'd rather not have my car on a mechanic's hoist more than it is on the road.
Get it done right the first time.
I'll put down all my mods here so people will know how cool I am!
Would changing the thermostat help with the heat? it takes forever for the heat to come on my 08 GT.
MODS: Red L.E.D interior lights, L.E.D reverse lights. More to come!!
Like Ryan said how long is forever? Keep in mind cold temperatures like we are experiencing it will take a while to warm the car. Don't leave the blower on full blast either otherwise you will just be cooling the hot air. I would recommend a coolant flush as bad coolant and also be a cause to poor heating
Wow. It must be the age of our cars and the weather. I'm in the same boat as RR. Car has been running fine for 8 years (190k KM) and last month got CEL for similar - I think mine was for faulty coolant temp sensor. Car would always idle high so I think it was stuck in open loop. Jimmy changed the thermostat, coolant temp sensor, and obviously the coolant. Then a week later I got misfire code which I fixed. Going to Jimmy tomorrow to replace CV boot. Hopefully that's it for a long while.
Just got this code today for the first time. 298000 km. Original thermostat and coolant. Not Bad
05 Mazda3 GT, 5 Speed, Red
I too got the CEL. I on the other hand have only 70K on my 2005. So it's not so much on mileage but years.
How does one know if it's the thermostat or coolant temp sensor? Also, in our cars what are the symptoms of a water pump going?
Made in BC.
I agree with others that say to go with OEM thermostat. The cheap aftermarket ones often fail closed which could mean a very expensive engine repair. I try to avoid highly overpriced dealers at all cost, but sometimes their parts are the best and most cost effective in the long run.
Would you guys replace the temperature sensor at the same time? I dunno how much more it would be but I am thinking it'll be a good idea so not to go through the hassle again for a long time.