DIY: Mazda 3 (2.3 GT) Turbine/Input Speed Sensor Replacement

[cyberscorpi0]

***CAUTION: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK***

"I'm not a Mechanic or Auto Body Specialist. I sit in-front of my computer all day at work. That being said; If I can do this Step-By-Step DIY, so can you!" . . . JD

DETAILS OF MY CAR:
2004 Mazda 3 GT
Type: 4-door
Layout: transverse front engine/front-wheel-drive
Engine: 2.3 litre 4 cylinder, DOHC, 16-valves, variable valve timing
Horsepower: 160 @ 6500 rpm
Torque: 150 lb-ft @ 4500 rpm
Tires/Rims: 18"







++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++









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TOOLS REQUIRED:
:arrow: OBD II Code Reader (Product #25-1030-4) - Canadian Tire

> 10mm socket/wrench combo (Product #58-9230-2) - Canadian Tire

> Phillips/Cross Head Screwdriver (Product #58-9230-2) - Canadian Tire

> LED Work Flashlight-Extendable (Product #37-9415-4) - Canadian Tire

> Automotive Work Gloves (Product #57-0126-8 ) - Canadian Tire



MATERIALS REQUIRED:
> Input/Turbine Speed Sensor or "Generator Pulse" (Part No: FN01-21-550 ) - Joe @ Mazda of Toronto

> ATX Fluid for lubrication (Part No: 0000-23-ATF-M5 ) - Joe @ Mazda of Toronto



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[cyberscorpi0]

DTC P0715 [FN4A-EL] "Input/turbine speed sensor circuit malfunction"

DTC P0715
POSSIBLE CAUSE:
• Input/turbine speed sensor malfunction
• Short to ground in wiring harness between input/turbine speed sensor terminal A and PCM terminal 1K (Z6)/1Q (LF)
• Short to ground in wiring harness between input/turbine speed sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 1O (Z6)/1M (LF)
• Open circuit in wiring harness between input/turbine speed sensor terminal A and PCM terminal K (Z6)/1Q (LF)
• Open circuit in wiring harness between input/turbine speed sensor terminal B and PCM terminal 1O (Z6)/1M (LF)
• Damaged connectors between input/turbine speed sensor and PCM
• PCM malfunction



LET'S BEGIN . . .

STEP 1: Locate the 16 Pin On-Board Diagnostics or ODB Port (just above the Hood Release).





STEP 2: Connect the OBD II Cable to the Port (do not turn "ON" the OBD II Code Reader . . . the unit will power "ON" automatically).

. . . put the Car Key to the ignition switch & turn to "ON" position . . .

. . . Then press "Link" or Power on your OBD II Code Reader.

[cyberscorpi0]

STEP 3: Open the HOOD by pulling "Hood release" handle





STEP 4: Remove the battery cover (please excuse the dirty car)
4.1) There are 2 clips holding the battery cover





STEP 5: Disconnect the negative battery cable-first; then the positive battery cable (please excuse the dirty battery) using 10mm socket wrench/driver





STEP 6: Remove plastic screws using Phillips Cross Head (3 in total) then remove the plastic air intake for the battery





STEP 7: Remove Battery clamp using 10mm socket wrench/driver (2 bolts in total)

7.1) Remove front plastic tray by pulling/sliding up for easy access to battery





STEP 8: Remove Battery Tray Bolts using 10mm socket wrench/driver (3 bolts in total)






STEP 9: I couldn't remove the entire battery tray (due to elaborate wiring attached to the box). Therefore, I tied a sophisticated high-tech string to the hood to gain access to the "Input/Turbine Speed Sensor"

. . . different angle





STEP 10: This is when you will need your flashlight (Extendable is ideal). Locate & Disconnect the input/turbine speed sensor connector; sitting on top of the transmission (press the clip then pull; please be very carefull in pulling, you don't wanna damage the wires). Remove the "Input/Turbine Speed Sensor" by using 10mm socket wrench. You will need a lot of patience to get this done . . . )





STEP 11: Once the old-malfunctioning "TSS" has been removed, don't forget to take the orange rubber adaptor and apply to the new TSS






STEP 12: Apply ATF to the new O-ring
12.1) Connect the input/turbine speed sensor connector (note: click/lock)
12.2) Install the input/turbine speed sensor by using 10mm Socket Wrench.

Tightening torque: 8-11 N·m {82-112 kgf·cm, 71-97 in·lbf}

[cyberscorpi0]

STEP 13: Install Battery Tray (3 bolts in total)


STEP 14: Install Battery


STEP 15: Install Front Battery Plastic Tray


STEP 16: Install Battery Clamp (2 bolts in total)


STEP 17: Connect Positive Battery Cable


STEP 18: Connect Negative Battery Cable


STEP 19: Install Battery Cover


STEP 20: Connect OBD II Code Reader to Port . . . DTC Code should be gone at this point

[Sooaar]

did you check the ohms on your old input sensor before replacing it?

[Flash]

I went to Mazda and they gave me a sensor with three terminals on it. I found that one it's on the back and near the bottom of the transmission. Do you know what that sensors is? do you have apart number for the sensor that's in the picture? I went through all you steps and then realized that i had the wrong part. Your directions are real good though. thanks for being so specific.

[cwp_sedan]

I went to Mazda and they gave me a sensor with three terminals on it. I found that one it's on the back and near the bottom of the transmission. Do you know what that sensors is? do you have apart number for the sensor that's in the picture? I went through all you steps and then realized that i had the wrong part. Your directions are real good though. thanks for being so specific.

It's in the first post if you read it.

< Input/Turbine Speed Sensor or "Generator Pulse" (Part No: FN01-21-550 ) >

Who knows if that is what you need though. Hopefully this sorts it out for you.

[HarrySpider]

First, thank you for the AWESOME step by step, with instructions.

Second, sorry to resurrection this ancient post, but it's exactly what I'm looking for. I need to replace this sensor, I have the part and all the tools, BUT...

can anyone help with Step 6 above? it looks so simple: "STEP 6: Remove plastic screws using Phillips Cross Head (3 in total) then remove the plastic air intake for the battery"

Problem is, on my car, those aren't screws at all. I turn them, and nothing happens. On the ONE that I can see beneath, there is some kind of evil little plastic... clamp? what the hell is that dammed thing??? I can turn these "screws", but I can't remove them. Is it some kind of "keyed" thing, where you turn it a half-turn and it fits through a slot, or something? well I can turn the top part, but the bottom remains in its orientation, won't come out. I can't believe I'm stuck at the beginning...

Mazda, I'm furious... why couldn't it just be a freakin' screw? why put a screw fitting on top, just to fool people? so annoyed to be hung up. If I just knew how these stupid things come out, I could have gotten to this while there is daylight. Really needed this car tomorrow...

Suggestions for this clueless excuse for a mechanic (me) would be greatly appreciated... thanks...

[Chambies2015]

Sorry to be reviving a dead post. My 2004 mazda 3 is currently pulling a p0500 code. That calls to the VSS or vehicle speed sensor. I was just wondering if this is the sensor you are replacing in this DIY? Or is there another location for it. Thanks.

[Mike in Tucson]

I joined this forum mainly to thank cyberscorpio for the excellent write-up. Truly appreciated. As a mechanical engineer I've had to write lots of technical instructions, so I can appreciate it when somebody does a good job in one of these forums without even getting paid for it. I know it's a hassle to stop and take pictures - and maybe write down some notes - when you have crap all over your hands from working on the car. I followed your instructions and got the sensor swapped out in my wife's car with only moderate profanity.

In any case, I'd like to add one thing to this forum... I priced the sensor (part number FN01-21-550) from our local Mazda dealer here in Tucson (Jim Click Mazda). They wanted $125. Too much. I wanted a real OEM part, but knew damn well it shouldn't cost $125 after reading various post here and elsewhere. Most people were talking about prices around $90. After much looking around I found all the OEM suppliers on-line wanted $85 - $95, but then added nearly $20 for shipping and handling. At some point I happened upon a Mitsubishi brand sensor on Amazon for $22.30 that was listed as fitting my 2005 Mazda 3 w/4-speed automatic. It came in a small box with a Mitsubishi label, barcode, correct part #, etc. It tried to put a picture here but couldn't figure how to do it in the time I had. The sensor had ten reviews, and all ten were 5 stars, so I figured it was worth a try. It turns out it was a one-for-one match for the original one in the car, right down to the number stamped into the plastic body of the sensor. Maybe Mitsubishi was the original OEM supplier of that part to Mazda. ??? Who knows? All I know is that it looked just like the one I took out. For the heck of it I measured the resistance across the two terminals of the sensor on both old and the new. The old one was 386.6 Ohms. The new one was 373.3 Ohms. I don't know what that tells me or anybody else about its health, but there you have it. I just put the sensor in today, and the P0715 error code is gone, but I want to wait a few weeks before declaring victory, because according to my wife the error code (or more accurately the Check Engine light) came and went every few days. It might be worth noting that when it did show the Check Engine light the car would tend to hang up in 3rd gear, not wanting to shift up to 4th.

Here is a link to the Amazon site where I got the sensor.

http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Ele..._detailpages00

[kiloaway]

Thank you Mike and OP and everybody posted here. you guys would have possibly saved me a couple of hundreds. my Mazda 3 2.3L is perfectly fine except AT and check Engine light comes up while I was driving at normal highway speeds. I brought to the dealer but was told nothing wrong with the Engine or Tranny. it could be faulty TCM which may cost me a bunch.. I have not read code yet. but whatever i read here is going to the thing for my ride. i'll order that "Mitsubishi brand sensor" and see if it nails the issue i have. appreciated!

[lej]

Just wanted to say thanks to the OP for the write up and pictures, It's nice to confirm before starting and I too signed up for that alone.
I'm in Oz, had a cheap OBD2 and had the same issues/diagnosis on my Mrs car.
Just wanted to confirm the part is generic between Mitsubishi and Mazda, The part was $120+ (ebay) here and worked out about the same from US when adding postage.
I wasn't even game to price it at a Mazda dealer.
But what I did find was they are all produced in China and cheaper still at US $11.92 and great quality -
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HIGH-...08.0.56.FnAqvE
Job done in less than an hour, no profanities and an occy strap to the bonnet latch from the battery case was perfect
Good job fellas

[Tmantra]

To the original poster, you are replacing the speed sensor for odometer/spedometer etc and its part number is FN 01-21-550, visually this sensor has a mounting hole in line with the body of the sensor as your picture shows. If you want to replace the turbine shaft speed sensor its part number is FN 112-1551 and has a mounting hole that is 90 degrees to the body of the sensor. Two different sensors performing two different functions. This thread should be renamed changing the output speed sensor, not turbine speed sensor.

[MOmazda]

My AT and Check Engine light came on and was stuck in 2nd gear for a while then it went back to the normal driving. I did a diagnostic and it was the turbine speed sensor. I cleared the code and continued driving. Should I still be worried?