Rotors replacement after 68,000 km is this normal ?

[RedRaptor]

I'm on original rotors and pads (replaced by less brake dust model at 24,000 km by dealership). I'm at 144,000 km now and Jimmy inspected my brakes plus rotors saying I have at least 60% left on the pads. So yeah it does depend.

[Copierguy]

I recommend getting the cheapest rotors and the most expensive pads and do it yourself.

[ryu]

Please look up bedding brakes.

Jason mentioned this earlier in the thread but it doesn't look like many are listening.
I have dealt with "warped" rotors on a 3 and cx-9 by doing a fast bed and slower bed.
I have read that warped rotors is a myth, and after my experience I am believeing it.

[McGuyver_3]

Please look up bedding brakes.

Jason mentioned this earlier in the thread but it doesn't look like many are listening.
I have dealt with "warped" rotors on a 3 and cx-9 by doing a fast bed and slower bed.
I have read that warped rotors is a myth, and after my experience I am believeing it.

You are semi right but let me explain. Rotors go through several heat cycles causing the metal to expand and retract. At work for warranty purposes we mike the rotors in 8 different spots sometimes 12 as warranty can be picky. Between those 12 spots the rotors are all different thicknesses. That is what causes your pulsations from the brakes.

Please do not go running to the dealer asking for new rotors as we only do this to cars with certain mileages that are low and usually less then 5000km

[ryu]

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Ok this is what I read, someone else linked it from a forum.
It is kind of long and as with all internet material I looked up other opinions and info, but in my case it saved me a lot of time and money.

I found two bedding procedures that people seem to agree with.

Get up to 100kph brake pretty hard to 60kph, repeat about 5 times.
Drive for a while to cool the brakes down.
Don't stop during this time.

The second one is to get up to 80kph and brake lightly down to 10kph, repeat 5 times.
Drive for a while to cool brakes down.
Don't stop during the procedure.

The pulsing on our cx-9 was really bad.
Hard braking at hwy speed would shake the whole vehicle.
I was looking up warped rotors and warranty experiences.
I did the two bedding procedures about a week apart and I went from hard pulsing to very light pulsing to no pulsing.
Now a couple months later still no pulsing.

[ryu]

Oh and so there is some relevance to this forum.
The 3 had only minor pulsing. Usable.
But after I had such success with the cx-9 I tried the 80-10kph bedding procedure on the 3 and the pulsing is completely gone now.

YMMV, but there is minimal cost and no waiting for your car etc.
Hopefully it works just as well for anyone out there with this problem.

[Shizuka_Osamu]

i'm in need of replacing my rotors and pads. a friend recommended a setup he had before on his previous ride (BAER cross drilled and slotted rotors with KVR carbon pads). any comments for or against?

[zmz3]

I am amazed that so many of you are being told to replace your rotors because of this vibration. I posted a couple of years ago about the same problem & in review when I checked the runout of the rotor it was OK, but the pads were worn at an angle, so I just popped in a new set of Hawk pads. I am now at 196K with the original rotors, they are still fine & haven't had any vibration at all.

Wow! Simply amazing. I have replaced rotors at 26-50k kms on a 2007 Civic... My Mazda3 has yet to need them at 81k kms...

[tracking]

I got almost 100 000, and replaced them because I started to do events on the car. Otherwise, would have still been good for some time.

[wmzda5]

almost 30k km now on the cross drilled rotors and still running good. No pulsing wear on the rotors and pads checked weekly, mild rusting after wash and in the morning. I will update my experience when I reach 60k and so on.

[McGuyver_3]

almost 30k km now on the cross drilled rotors and still running good. No pulsing wear on the rotors and pads checked weekly, mild rusting after wash and in the morning. I will update my experience when I reach 60k and so on.

The mild rusting from the moisture is normal. the pads are shaving down the rotors and causing the raw material to be exposed. the raw material naturally rusts. It is just a thin layer which does not harm as in the first few brake applications it wears away

[maz06]

same thing happened to me but i stayed with OEM parts because they should overall be more durable. The density of the metal should be a bit better then aftermarket parts.

[wmzda5]

The density of the metal should be a bit better then aftermarket parts.

Density of cast iron IS EQUAL whether OEM or aftermarket. One thing you musty be looking into when looking inti rotors, how they do the casting. Some aftermarket rotors have same casting design as OEM, some are different (better?) and also look for tell tale sign og bad quality on the casting like not smoolth casting surface.

[wmzda5]

@ almost 100k now rotors and pads still ok. Have a slight sound when breaking byt not always (might need to lube the pins again, its @ 32k km now.